I drove it home that night and then drove it for an hour before it shut off. I also did have it washed the day before.
The crank sensor was replaced through the recall 1 or so years ago and I just had the speed control switch replaced through a recall a couple months ago. My thing is do I just replace what they said was wrong with it or should I do some more tests to find out what is exactly wrong with it, I need help thanks. So it is being towed to my brother's garage tonight where I am going to do the work. Well I said that was too much and would do the work myself and get the parts myself. I asked them did they test the HPOP oil pressure (read some place here they should), they said yes and it was good (around 2,000 psi I think they said). So I had it towed to the dealership, they said I needed a injector driver module ($1500 installed), had a intermittent glow plug relay ($126 installed), and had two glow plugs that were bad (replace all plugs, new glow pug wires, and gaskets for $1057 installed). Fuel flows out of drain valve on the fuel filter. I visually checked fuses and didn't find anything wrong. I changed fuel filter, added 5 gallons of fuel, and check for codes with a regular OBD-II code reader and no codes. If host failure occurs, highly available virtual machines will restart. Oil Pressure comes up after a little bit of cranking. A user who creates a virtual machine in the VM Portal is automatically assigned. Then I thought no, it couldn't be that and I tried to start it again. I thought it could be running out of fuel even though it said 1/4 tank, so I turned it off. I pulled off into a parking lot and tried starting it and started right up, but then started idling rough. UPDATE: Engine just died, cranks but no start.IDM or GPR?Īlright I was driving down a road and the engine just shut off.
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